I only sharpen the large tooth crosscut saws. I do not sharpen the small carpenter hand saws. If the saw is rust free and I only have to work on and sharpen the teeth, I charge the following:

Sharpening includes cleaning the gullets, jointing, raker swaging and filing, filing cutter teeth and cutter teeth setting. Some saws, especially new saws, require extra jointing to get everything on line. This creates a lot more work and I will add on $1 to $2 per foot.

When sharpening vintage saws, there is always the risk of breaking something. Good vintage saws are 50+ years old and sometimes they become hard and brittle. I will usually anneal the rakers to prevent breakage but never the cutters. Cutter teeth can break off during the setting procees although this is rare.

First, remove all handles and hardware from your saw. I only need the metal blade. You can leave the handle on short one-man saws if you want.

For saws less than five feet in length, you can wrap in heavy cardboard and tape securely. If the saw is over five feet, I recommend you sandwich between two pieces of 1/4" plywood for shipping. Bolt the plywood together with 1/4" bolts through the handle holes in the saw and tape securely. I will use the same package to ship the saws back to you. Try to keep your package as small as possible, especially below the 84" total (length + width + height) or 108" total. Almost always it will be cheaper to ship through the U.S. Postal Service or FedEx ground. Rarely, will it be cheaper to ship through UPS. If you weigh and measure your saw, you can get rates very close at http://usps.com/ or http://fedex.com/.

The customer pays all shipping charges, both ways. After I finish the saw and ship it back, I will invoice you for sharpening charges and return shipping. Any questions just email me.